Call # 272 - from 3 May to 20 June 2004

Cotton is one of the globalized agricultural products on which millions of people depend in one way or another. African producers have been mobilizing for several years now to obtain a decent income(1). At the other end of the production chain the most basic rights of Latin-American or Asian textile workers are regularly flouted. Between the two, in the processing stage, workers in cotton spinning mills are no better off. In India a coalition of organizations and unions in Tamil Nadu recently conducted an inquiry into human rights in a hundred spinning mills. Violations of workers’ rights were observed on a large scale. On the basis of this information, local organizations are calling for negotiations with representatives of the industry and local authorities to obtain improvements in the situation. To show that they are not alone in this struggle they have called on supporters in other countries to contact the relevant State government officials concerned.

Thirty Indian organizations and seven trade unions have formed the "Clean Clothes Campaign Task Force"(2) - Tamil Nadu, a coalition aimed at improving working conditions in this Indian State. These organizations recently undertook an investigation in the Dingidul district where 167 cotton spinning mills are established. Their conclusions leave no room for doubt: while cotton exporters are making huge profits, "the industry is characterized by the use of forced overtime, child labour, and the denial of fundamental union rights".

The number of children employed in the Dingidul workshops is estimated at 950. In some factories workers are beaten with sticks, irrespective of their age, either to "punish" them or to keep them working at a fast pace. The machines used are obsolete and safety standards are ignored. As a result accidents are frequent: cut fingers and in the worst cases amputations. In these insalubrious workshops inadequate ventilation and fine cotton dust are harmful to workers’ respiratory system.

Not respected indian laws

Apart from these degrading working conditions, employers disregard the few advantages provided for by law such as State insurance, social security, paid leave and maternity leave. Many workers receive less than the minimum wage and are unable to meet their most basic needs. Finally, one of the strategies of company managers is to force experienced - and therefore better paid - workers to resign so that they have no alternative but to take jobs at other mills at beginners’ wages.

The main cause for these violations of economic and social rights is not the inadequacy of legislation but the failure of the economic actors and local institutions concerned to comply with it. The Clean Clothes Campaign - Task Force Tamil Nadu has revealed that no fewer than twelve Indian laws in this domain are violated. The history of labour movements shows that those in the best position to ensure application of labour laws are the workers themselves, via the organizations representing them.

Trade union freedom: a cornerstone

This is why the Indian organizations’ and unions’ appeal focuses on trade union freedom. Their report highlights violations of that freedom and the fact that only a minority of cotton spinning mills recognize unions. Workers who organize are regularly harassed, sometimes beaten, or even dismissed and then blacklisted to ensure that they are not reemployed in the area.

Faced with this situation, the local authorities’ attitude is characterized by passive or even active support for the managers of the mills. The latter have even obtained a court order prohibiting union meetings within a radius of 300 metres of the workshops.

The Clean Clothes Campaign - Task Force Tamil Nadu has therefore appealed to its international partners to urge the Tamil Nadu Prime Minister to open negotiations between civil society organizations and the economic players and authorities concerned.

(1) Cf. Call n° 243 of Réseau-Solidarité "Afrique de l’Ouest, sauvons le coton" (January 2002)

(2) The Tamil Nadu "Clean Clothes Campaign" works in close collaboration with the European organization of the same name (Cf. Les Echos du Réseau-Solidarité, n° 107, April- June 2004, p.2).

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Fair cotton trade in India:

Cotton is the natural yarn most used in the world and every year some 20 million tons are harvested worldwide.

However, cotton farming and processing, as well as manufacturing the end product, generally hide a painful social and environmental reality.

In central India cotton farmers and workers have organized to produce clothes, towels and bags in a way that respects the environment and social rights.

They have worked on this project with Greenlicense, a partner of the fair trade organization Magasins du Monde - Oxfam in Belgium which commercializes their products.

Source: "Coton, la menace vient du Nord" édited by Peuples Solidaires, Oxfam Solidarité and Oxfam Magasins du Monde Belgique, 70 p., 10 € postage included (available from Réseau-Solidarité)

Call in liaison with :

Clean Clothes Campaign : www.cleanclothes.org

WHAT TO DO ?

By letter: copy or download the standard letter below by clicking here.

Don’t forget to date and sign your letter and to add your name and address.

Deadline: as soon as you receive this call and not later than mid-June 2004.

E-mail: cmcell@tn.gov.in

Cc : savelrc@vsnl.net ; collr@dindigul.tn.nic.in ; labsec@tn.gov.in ; dispa@rediffmail.com

Letter to :

Dr. J. Jayalalithaa

Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu

Secretariat

St. George Fort

Chennai ­ 600 009

India

(Date)

Dear Chief Minister,

I have been informed by Réseau-Solidarité (Rennes, France) of violations of workers’ rights in the cotton spinning mills of Vedasanthu, including: contravention of minimum wage legislation, failure to pay legal benefits, violation of health and safety standards, child labour, and violation of the right to freedom of association.

According to the Clean Clothes Campaign Task Force (CCC) ­ Tamil Nadu, working conditions in these mills contravene numerous laws. I therefore call upon you to ensure that steps are taken to improve conditions for workers in this sector.

Specifically, I urge you to:

  lift the District court order that prohibits workers from assembling in front of the mill gate within a radius of 300 meters

­ discuss with the CCC Tamil Nadu and relevant trade union and labour officials the development of a follow-up plan for addressing these problems.

Thank you for your attention. I hope that you will keep me informed of the steps you take to address these concerns.

Yours sincerely,